Hill towns, saints, truffles and wine, in a region most visitors skip, an hour or two from Rome and Florence.
Umbria is the green, landlocked region between Rome and Florence. It has the same medieval hill towns and good food as Tuscany, with far fewer people. A car is the best way to see it, but the main towns are also on train lines. Plan three to four days.
The regional capital, on a hill, with a lively university atmosphere. Walk the main street, Corso Vannucci, to the medieval Palazzo dei Priori and the Fontana Maggiore. Perugia is also known for its chocolate, so stop at a chocolatier.
The birthplace of Saint Francis, with a UNESCO-listed basilica covered in frescoes, including famous cycles attributed to Giotto. The pink-stone town is peaceful early in the morning and in the evening, after the tour groups leave.
A town on top of a cliff of volcanic rock, about an hour and twenty minutes by train from Rome. Its cathedral has a striking gold mosaic facade. Underneath the town, guided tours go through caves and tunnels. Try the local white wine, Orvieto Classico.
A small, flower-filled village of stone lanes. In June, residents cover the streets with carpets of flower petals for the Infiorata festival. It is a quiet base for exploring the region.
A hill town with a cathedral, a fortress and the Ponte delle Torri, a tall medieval bridge across a gorge. It hosts the Festival dei Due Mondi, an arts festival, in June and July.
The village called the balcony of Umbria sits above vineyards. It is the home of Sagrantino, a bold red wine made only here. Visit a winery for a tasting and try the local olive oil.
Tip: Umbria is also known for its truffles and cured meats, especially around Norcia. Look for them on the menu in autumn and winter.